Davide Scabin è uno degli chef più geniali e creativi della grande ristorazione italiana. Nel duemila il Combal Zero il suo ristorante due stelle Michelin, si trasferisce all’interno del Museo di Arte Contemporanea del castello di Rivoli, vicino Torino. Ha ispirato film, è “affamato e folle” di idee, di alchimia, di novità, di vita. E’ simpatico Davide Scabin, assediato dalla folla, siamo riusciti a realizzare l’intervista nascondendoci … Davvero una conversazione piacevole e gioviale. Grazie ancora a Davide Scabin.
Lei è un personaggio istrionico ed eclettico, ma amante di tradizione e di rispetto per la terra
Assolutamente si, senza questi termini che lei ha citato un cuoco non può esistere, bisognerebbe avere questo nelle corde, poi si può giocare con la creatività, ma fondamentalmente bisogna avere delle basi solide sulla tradizione e sul rispetto delle origini, noi italiani dobbiamo ricordarci chi siamo…
Cos’è per Lei il rispetto?
E’ lo sguardo in due direzioni, forse la cosa più difficile, perché in un momento storico come questo di adesso, bisogna saper guardare dietro e davanti in maniera contemporanea, io direi che bisogna avere la visione laterale, ovvero quello che percepisci in generale, che non è sempre uguale a quello che vedi, o gli altri vogliono che tu debba vedere, ma realtà vera, che significa anche avere coraggio…
Lei è un grande ristoratore, qual’è la materia prima che ama di più?
L’uovo. Fondamentalmente come chef e come uomo lo considero la materia dove la natura ha fatto già tutto… Gli ha dato anche il packaging per andare in giro, ha un involucro, è già incartato, non ha bisogno di niente, è la perfezione… Non bisogna fargli niente, ed è molto difficile riuscire a rispettare questa essenza… E’ talmente perfetta!
Quando Lei ha un uovo in mano cosa fa?
Il Cyber Eggs …
Ah, una sua invenzione famosissima che toglie il pensiero…
L’uovo bisogna solo riuscire a farlo ballare in punta dei piedi per cuocerlo al punto giusto… E quando farò delle uova al tegamino per cento persone posso dire di poter andare il giorno dopo in pensione, poiché avrò raggiunto la vera professione.
Questa sua visione della vita laterale tradizionale ma anche futurista, la spinge a portare le lasagne anche sullo spazio…
Si, abbiamo creato per la Nasa e per la Esa cinque piatti, tre sono disidratati, due sterilizzati. Sono davvero orgoglioso che per la prima volta il made in Italy, vola nello spazio!!! E nella tradizione perché parliamo di una lasagna, una parmigiana di melanzane, un risotto al pesto, una caponata di verdure ed un tiramisù, quindi stiam parlando della nostra essenza italiana. E che questo sia riuscito a progettarlo, a produrlo e mandarlo alla Esa e alla Nasa, con trentasei mesi di conservazione, senza usare additivi chimici, solo con cibi organici, quindi con la filiera corta piemontese, come la fassona per fare il ragù o la salsiccia di Bra, le cipolle di Antezana per fare il soffritto, sono totalmente orgoglioso di questo…
Quale sarà la ristorazione del futuro
La coscienza che il mondo è cambiato.
Le risorse sono finite o infinite?
Io penso che sono infinite, ma ad esempio non uso il tonno rosso, mi arrabbio con chi usa il tonno rosso perché bisogna lasciarli stare come i salmoni selvatici, dargli il tempo che si riproducano e i cuochi hanno una responsabilità da questo punto di vista, possono sensibilizzare e prendere decisioni, ovvero scegliere. Aiutare la produzione di grandi materie prime, educare e aiutare i contadini e i produttori di tutto il mondo a credere nel produrre cibo sano. Il futuro non lo so, ma probabilmente si dovrà andare verso una alimentazione consapevole del fatto che è fondamentale come ci si alimenta e come si mangia tutti i giorni, però i cuochi devono scendere dalla torre d’avorio dove si sono arroccati, siamo un po’ chiusi tutti quanti… Approfittando di questo momento che il cuoco è diventato una star, un personaggio, occorre ricominciare a parlare con la gente informando, scendendo in piazza, far capire che siamo italiani, abbiamo nel nostro dna la capacità di cucinare, tante nazioni del mondo più importanti di noi a livello economico e mondiale, non hanno il nostro codice genetico, che sa cucinare e sa mangiar bene, che deve diventare per noi un vanto, una promessa.
Ripartire dal gusto, che ne dice?
Senta, se l’Italia va a rotoli e l’Europa va a rotoli, almeno noi sappiamo mangiare… Andremo a rotoli mangiando bene!
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