Si è appena conclusa a Milano, Identità Golose 2013. Per la partecipazione degli operatori del settore, dei grandi chef, del tutto esaurito, la manifestazione conferma di essere il meglio nel settore. Dopo questo ennesimo successo abbiamo chiesto a Paolo Marchi, protagonista indiscusso e patron del congresso, quali sono state le novità di questa edizione di Identità 2013:
“La novità assoluta -ha dichiarato Marchi- è stata Identità di sala, una giornata dedicata al maitre, sommelier e cameriere. Paradossale, ma il successo sempre crescente degli chef, ha messo in ombra il lavoro della metà di un ristorante che i clienti visitano, la sala per l’appunto, con il risultato che nessuno vuole portare i piatti, consigliare i vini… perché tutti, quasi tutti, sognano una carriera di star-chef.

1) Identita golose, quest’anno ha avuto come tema il valore rivoluzionario del rispetto. Rispetto, deriva dal latino respicio, un certo modo di guardare, cosa deve tener presente oggi uno sguardo per essere rispettoso?
Non deve creare imbarazzo, deve osservare ovunque, deve cogliere i dettagli. Più in generale, il rispetto è ascoltare gli altri, cercare di capire le loro esigenze, le loro opinioni, non far calare le proprie opinioni come fossero il “verbo”.

2) Identità golose evocano all’animo passione, tradizione, rispetto della terra, tre cuori nel grande cuore della vita che è il gusto…
Il gusto è stile, è appagare se stessi nutrendosi con intelligenza e armonia, anche con trasgressione quando si arriva o sfiora il sublime…

3) Paolo Marchi, uno dei massimi esperti nel settore enogastronomico, quali saranno le nuove tendenze della ristorazione futura?
I medici diventeranno i consulenti più stretti dei cuochi. Ci sarà sempre più fusion a livello popolare e più territorio a livello top. Sarà sempre più difficile fare una spesa superlativa, ad esempio certi pesci.

4) La nostra tradizione culinaria millenaria secondo Lei è tutelata dalla nostra legislazione?
Direi di no. In Italia i più, si nutrono con la parola tradizioni, ma non vanno oltre il nome sul menu.

5) Come pensa si potranno conciliare i costi dell’alta ristorazione con i problemi economici che attanagliano sempre più il cittadino?
I grandi chef impareranno a oculare la loro offerta e i clienti a spendere con maggiore intelligenza, concentrandosi sui grandi e autentici momenti. Si capirà che nutrirsi bene è diverso dal godere gastronomico, ma non saranno più abbuffate pantagrueliche.

6) Forse la dignità di un popolo che sta affrontando una crisi economica feroce, che vede un impoverimento dei valori del vivere, della bellezza, della salute, il gusto e la cucina potrebbero rappresentare il più grande atto rivoluzionario culturale e socio politico per ripartire tutti insieme?
In teoria sì, ma chi vota certe persone la dignità non sa nemmeno cosa sia. La mèta è ancora lontana perché coloro che devono dare l’esempio, lo sanno dare in negativo.

7) Il rispetto della natura, madre dei prodotti della terra, le cui risorse non sono infinite ma finite, saranno la sfida dei grandi chef che sono sempre più attenti a queste tematiche…
Preciso come ha detto lei. I grandi chef saranno grandi se sapranno essere risparmiosi.

8) La grande ristorazione come trainer di speranza di ritorno all’umano? Qual’ è la più grande speranza di Paolo Marchi?
In via ideale che si soffra meno nel mondo per il cibo e per l’acqua, e nel quotidiano che anche in Italia si inizi per davvero a dare dignità alla ristorazione di qualità. Sogno un Mof di casa nostra e un successo al Bocuse d’Or!

Giuliana Poli
Per Newsfood.com

 

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